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The Bra Code: Cracking The Secrets of Your Most Supportive Sidekick

May 30, 2025

The Bra Code: Cracking The Secrets of Your Most Supportive Sidekick

Judi Prue | Read in 9 minutes

Hello,

Let’s talk bras. That everyday essential we often wear without a second thought, despite the fact that a badly-fitting one can ruin your day. For something that spends so much time on our bodies, many of us know surprisingly little about how bras are meant to work, how they should fit, and why the right one can completely transform not only your outfit but how you feel.

This weekend, we’re lifting the lid (and the bustline) on everything you need to know about bras: from their surprisingly fascinating history to the modern marvels of engineering they are today. We’ll cover fit tips, style types, specialist needs, construction secrets, and where to shop for support that doesn’t sacrifice comfort. Consider this your go-to guide for finding your perfect match.

A Short History of the Bra

Before bras as we know them, ancient women used simple fabric bands to provide chest support. Think less lingerie, more DIY bandeau. The corset, however, dominated from the 16th century onwards, cinching waists and lifting busts into gravity-defying shapes. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the bra began to evolve into a standalone garment.

In 1914, Mary Phelps Jacob patented the first modern bra design using handkerchiefs and ribbon. Fed up with corsets under her evening gown, she created a more comfortable and flexible option. Her invention laid the groundwork for what would become a century of innovation. By the 1930s, cup sizes were introduced, revolutionising how bras were made and fitted. The bullet bras of the '40s and '50s created the iconic conical silhouette, while the 1960s and '70s welcomed liberation and minimalism.

By the 1990s, push-up bras were all the rage, and the 2000s saw a surge in seamless T-shirt bras and sports bras that combined support with activewear chic. Today, we're lucky to have an unprecedented range of options catering to all sizes, shapes, and personal preferences.

The Bra Code: Cracking The Secrets of Your Most Supportive Sidekick

Why Bras Matter

The primary job of a bra is to support breast tissue and reduce strain on the neck, shoulders, and back. But the best bras do more than just hold things in place. They enhance shape, improve posture, create a smooth foundation under clothes, and boost confidence.

A great bra can make your favourite top look better, help you feel more put-together, and even change how you carry yourself. And yet, most of us are still wearing the wrong size. In fact, estimates suggest that around 80% of women are in bras that don't fit properly.

Bras for Every Body

Breasts come in all shapes and sizes, and so should bras. Understanding your breast shape (teardrop, round, side-set, asymmetrical) can help you choose styles that flatter and fit. Full-cup bras offer maximum coverage and support, while balconette styles create uplift and work beautifully under lower necklines. Plunge bras enhance cleavage and work well for close-set breasts.

For those with smaller busts, styles with light padding or contouring can enhance shape. Those with larger busts may benefit from reinforced bands, multi-part cups, and wider straps to distribute weight evenly.

Asymmetry? You're not alone. Most women have one breast slightly bigger than the other. Look for stretch cups or insertable pads that help even things out.

Finding the Right Fit: The Truth About Sizing

Let’s start with this: bra sizing isn’t an exact science. It varies by brand, style, and even fabric. Knowing how to measure yourself is the first step towards finding your ideal fit.

Here’s how:

Measure snugly around your ribcage, just under your bust. This is your band size.
Measure around the fullest part of your bust. The difference between this and your band measurement determines your cup size (each inch is roughly one cup size).

Still confused? You're not alone. Getting a professional fitting (in-store or online via a virtual fitting service like Brasense) is well worth your time. Key fit indicators include:

The band should sit firmly and evenly around your torso.
The centre gore (between the cups) should lie flat.
The cups should encase all breast tissue without spillage or gaping.
The straps should stay put without digging into your shoulders.

A correctly fitted bra should feel secure, supportive, and comfortable enough to wear all day.

We will be holding a weekend of exclusive bra fitting sessions with the amazing Sara from Bra Sense, on the weekend of the 6th and 7th of September. If you would like to register your interest, please email me here, and save the date in your diary.

Construction Matters: What Makes a Bra Great

Ever wonder why some bras feel amazing and others feel like a punishment? It’s all in the construction. A well-made bra combines fit, fabric, and function.

Key elements include:

The band should provide 80% of the support. It must be firm and level.
The cups should hold all breast tissue without spillage or gaping.
Underwire (if included) should sit flush against your ribcage and not press into breast tissue.
Straps should be adjustable and proportionate to cup size. They help lift but should not bear all the weight.
Quality fabric means breathability, stretch, and durability.

Many premium bras go through dozens of individual steps in manufacturing — it’s practically couture for your chest!

Wired vs. Non-Wired: What’s Right for You?

Underwired bras use a thin, semi-rigid wire under each cup to lift and separate the breasts. They're ideal for providing structure and support, especially for fuller busts. That said, wires should never dig or poke. If they do, it’s either a poor fit or poor quality or it's worn out and time for a new one.

Non-wired bras (also known as soft cups or wire-free) offer comfort and flexibility. While they may lack the sculpting of their wired counterparts, modern designs are far more supportive than you might expect. These are perfect for relaxed days, travel, sleep, or anyone recovering from surgery.

Ultimately, it’s a personal preference — and many women find a mix of both in their drawers works best.

Sports Bras: Your Workout Wingwoman

Whether you’re a marathon runner or a dog walker a good sports bra is non-negotiable. Unlike regular bras, sports bras are built to minimise breast movement during activity — and that’s no small feat.

Breasts have no muscles, just ligaments, which means repetitive bouncing (yes, even mild bouncing) can stretch and damage tissue over time. The right sports bra offers compression, encapsulation, or a mix of both to keep everything comfortably in place while you move.

Look for moisture-wicking fabrics, wide bands, and adjustable straps to suit your activity level. Brands like Shock Absorber, Panache Sport, and Nike are popular for a reason — they take the bounce seriously so you don’t have to.

Maternity & Nursing Bras

Pregnancy and breastfeeding bring about all sorts of beautiful changes — not least to your bra size, shape, and needs. Maternity bras are designed to grow with you, offering gentle, flexible support without the restriction of underwires.

Think soft fabrics, wider straps, and stretchy cups that adapt as your body does. Nursing bras go one step further, featuring clip-down cups or pull-aside panels for easy feeding access.

Look for breathable, seamless designs that offer both comfort and convenience, especially during those sleep-deprived early days. Brands like Bravado, Hotmilk, and JoJo Maman Bébé offer smart, supportive options that feel as good as they look.

Specialised Support: Post-Mastectomy and Beyond

For women who have undergone breast cancer surgery or reconstruction, the lingerie world now offers thoughtful, stylish solutions. Post-mastectomy bras often feature soft linings and pockets for prostheses. Leading brands like Amoena and Nicola Jane design bras that prioritise comfort, discretion, and femininity. Look for:

Soft, breathable fabrics
Pocketed cups for prosthesis
Front-fastening styles for ease post-surgery

For those with reconstructions, wireless or moulded bras with gentle stretch and full coverage are usually most comfortable during healing. Every woman deserves a bra that makes her feel supported, emotionally and physically.

Where to Shop: Trusted Brands & Retailers

Whether you're an A or an H, high street or high-end, there’s a bra out there for you. Some of our favourite UK-friendly shops include:

Bravissimo: Known for fuller bust sizes and expert fittings.

Marks & Spencer: Reliable, inclusive, and excellent for basics.
John Lewis: Offers a wide range and excellent in-store fitting services.
Panache, Freya, Fantasie, Chantelle, Wacoal: All known for great engineering and elegant styles.
Amoena & Nicola Jane: Ideal for post-surgery support.

Many retailers now offer virtual fittings and extended size ranges, making it easier than ever to shop from home.

Price Guide: How Much Should a Good Bra Cost?

Expect to pay between £25 and £60 for a well-constructed bra. Budget brands can be hit or miss in terms of quality and longevity. Investing in a few good bras will save you money (and discomfort) in the long run. A well-cared-for bra should last around 12 months with regular rotation.

Bra Facts to Impress Your Friends

The average woman owns 9 bras but only regularly wears 3.

The largest recorded bra size is a 102ZZZ.
Marilyn Monroe reportedly wore a 36C — though cup sizing was very different back then!
The word "brassiere" comes from the old French "bracière," meaning arm protector. It wasn't used for bust support until the early 20th century.

Final Thoughts - Time to Reboot Your Bra Drawer?

If your bras are looking a little grey, fraying at the seams, or you’ve experienced changes in weight, hormones, or lifestyle, it's time. Book a fitting, explore new styles, and make comfort a priority. You deserve to start each day supported in every sense of the word.

Whether you’re after a practical T-shirt bra, a delicate lace number, or a soft embrace post-surgery, your perfect fit is out there. And when you find it? Total lift, zero dig, and a little extra confidence.

Now go forth, measure up, and treat your top drawer to a much-needed refresh.

Click Here for Your Ultimate Bra Collection

Enjoy your weekend! Next week's 'The Weekend Read' is all about 'Holiday Packing. Look out for that next Saturday.

Best wishes,

Judi & Jenny x

Written by Judi Prue & Jenny Goldsmith from House of Colour for The Weekend Read – 40 years of colour, confidence, and community.