May 06, 2025
Tailored, Not Taken: How To Dress The Met Gala’s Theme Without Appropriating Black Style

Image credit: Celia B, Lisou, Getty Images
By Sandy Lancaster, House of Colour Chiswick
When the Met Gala invites the world to explore a theme, it never stays on the steps of the Met. This year’s focus - Black dandyism and tailoring - carries more depth than most. It’s not just a style moment, it’s a cultural inheritance. And for those of us inspired by it, the question is not just what to wear, but how to wear it with respect.
The Legacy Behind The Look
Black dandyism has always been more than sharp suits and polished shoes. It’s resistance dressed in elegance. Emerging as a response to racist assumptions and restrictions, Black dandyism turned tailoring into rebellion. Figures like Frederick Douglass, Duke Ellington and more recently André Leon Talley and the Congolese sapeurs used fashion to declare their confidence and dignity. So when non-Black wearers approach this theme, the responsibility is to honour its roots, not just replicate its aesthetic.
Wear The Spirit, Not The Costume
Instead of surface-level mimicry - think exaggerated gold chains or cartoonish interpretations - look for pieces that reflect the spirit of the movement: individuality, pride and precision. This doesn’t mean you can’t have fun with colour or detail. In fact, many of the designers keeping this tradition alive are known for their vibrancy and boldness.
Lisou London: A Case In Point
One of my favourite brands for this theme is Lisou London, created by Tanzanian-born designer Rene Macdonald. Her silk tailoring blends classic British cuts with African-inspired prints, offering a rich, respectful route into this world. A patterned silk suit in jewel tones from Lisou speaks volumes without saying the wrong thing.
How women Can Channel Dandyism
For women, this theme opens up powerful possibilities:
- A tailored three-piece suit in rich velvet or brocade
- A silk shirt with a pussy-bow or cravat, paired with wide-leg trousers
- Structured loafers or heeled oxfords
- Accessories like pocket squares, brooches or a walking cane with subtle drama
Pair these with a slick low bun, bold lip and quiet confidence. The goal is not to play dress-up, but to show up - polished, considered and informed.
Other UK-based designers to explore include Wales Bonner (fusing European tailoring with Afro-Atlantic references), Bianca Saunders (challenging gender norms in tailoring) and Nicholas Daley (drawing on both Scottish and Jamaican heritage to create layered, story-rich pieces).
Black dandyism isn’t just a fashion moment - it’s a form of expression with deep cultural weight. Wearing it well starts with understanding that. The Met Gala has no doubt served us looks, but the real style points will go to those who show respect along with sharp cuts.
Want to figure out your own personal style? Book your personal colour and style appointment with your local House of Colour Stylist here.